November 2007


Another place gone

Part 42,748 in the City that Fades Away series.

Yesterday I walked over to the Easy in Barracas to buy a lamp for my writing desk. On the way I came across this corner (Jovellanos and Villafañe) where a building had recently been demolished.


Barracas - After

I was sad since I remembered taking the photo below just last month.


Barracas - Before

At the time I was concerned that the billboards around the house meant that it was going to be demolished. But then I thought, maybe the signs are just to keep people out. It looked like such a nice house.

From the city’s map site I found this photo of the house from a few years back.


formerbarracascasa.jpg

Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Piedad

Amid the exhaust of traffic, tucked away on a side street in the center of the city is a glorious church that is likely visited by few foreigners (though Pope John Paul II did come by once).


Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Piedad

The interior is breathtaking and in astonishing good shape, practically perfect with polished columns crowned with gold, chandeliers, and the late afternoon light accenting the pink trim of the ceiling.


Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Piedad

Much of the ceiling, on a closer look, is trompe l’oeil and, perhaps, a little overdone. The figures of Adam and Eve rising over the nave is almost too much yet the church is crowded with locals on a weekday afternoon. The faithful coming in pray, the only sounds being the steps echoing on the floor and the diminished roar of the buses outside, a reminder of hurried lives.

As I sit in a pew near the entrance I hear a voice to my left, from over near a side altar, the one to St. Teresa I think. An elderly woman prays aloud, her words accompanied by the creaking of the door as a young woman enters, perhaps a parishioner or someone simply needing a moment’s reflection, or just a curious wanderer like myself.

You can find Basílica Nuestra Señora de la Piedad at the corner of Bartolomé Mitre and Paraná. Take a moment to admire the pasaje across the street. A few years ago the pasaje was opened to the public but I’ve noticed that the gates to the pasaje are always locked the last few times I’ve been by there.

Santa Catalina on the firetruck

Sitting home on a quiet Sunday reading the newspapers, then there’s all this noise outside…sirens, loudspeakers, drums…sounds like a demonstration of some sort, though Sunday is a strange day for that …wander downstairs out to the street to see what’s up…turns out to be a nice family event, kids celebrating their first communion on the feast day of St. Catherine, who rode a firetruck following the line of parents and priests.

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