November 2007

Dreaming of Argentina and Tango

I try to look in, even briefly, on the blogs by travelers to Buenos Aires. Most cover the same familiar territory, some offer helpful tips for the tourists, and then there are those offering a fresh perspective. Occasionally, a rather famous name (depending upon your definition of fame) might be blogging about Buenos Aires. Last year there was David Byrne blogging about his trip to Argentina. Today, I came across a delightful series of postings by Robert Fulghum, known for his enormously popular books, particularly All I Really Need to Know I Learned in Kindergarten.

The dominant theme in my mind for months has been the dream of Argentina and tango. From experience I know that whatever you imagine a new country to be, reality will adjust your imagination. What is in the guide books is all too often a description of a Disney World that exists only for tourists who will be satisfied with illusions. It is best to be prepared to be disappointed by what you anticipate, surprised by what you encounter, and delighted by what you find.

So, then, how is BsAs and tango, you may ask? I will tell you. In the form of the South American literary tradition of magic realism, The Tango Chronicles of Senor Don Roberto Juan Carlos Fuljumero y Suipacha. You may draw your own conclusions.

Visit Fulghum’s site to read the Tango Chronicles.

A classic deep on the southside

This spot should certainly find itself on Robert’s upcoming map of Barracas. Way down at the corner of Montes de Oca and California is Bar El Progreso. A sign above the bar proudly states that it has been around since 1942. Sometimes I feel that I shouldn’t blog about these places but this place is hardly any secret. El Progreso is on the city’s official list of notable bars. I was little surprised to find that it even has a Web site: Bar El Progreso.

Bar El Progreso

El Progreso wasn’t doing much business this past Saturday. Indeed, they were closing up just after 1pm. Siesta?

Bar El Progreso

This is different:

Bar El Progreso

And like every good bar El Progreso has its own resident cat.

Bar El Progreso

« Previous Page