I’ve never understood the fascination of porteños with Puerto Madero. Other than the bridge designed by Calatrava, I’ve never seen Puerto Madero as anything more than the typical riverfront development that can be found in many mid-sized U.S. cities. Yet, I’ve recently developed a new appreciation for the area.
A while ago, Ceci started to work with one of the many high-tech companies with offices in Puerto Madero. The office spaces in those buildings are very pleasant. Ceci works with a delightful group of people and it’s probably the best working experience of her life. I’m very happy for her, particularly since good jobs are hard to find in this country.
In the late afternoons, I often head over to Puerto Madero to meet her after work so that we can do something downtown or just walk back to San Telmo together. I often will arrive in Puerto Madero an hour or so earlier and find a seat on a shady bench. It’s actually quite relaxing. Compared with San Telmo, Puerto Madero is incredibly quiet.
Lately, I’ve also enjoyed going over to Costanera Sur, a short walk away. It gets rather crowded on weekends but during the week Costanera Sur is a place where one can really escape the noise and sometimes frantic pace of the city.
I still think that there’s no reason for tourists to spend time in Puerto Madero, though I continue to see a lot of them wandering around. There are just so many other fascinating parts to Buenos Aires to explore if you’re only here for a few days.
And I don’t really understand why anyone would want to live in Puerto Madero. The apartments, while surely nice, are way overpriced. Walking among those apartment buildings, I feel like I’m in some generic part of a boring U.S. city. There is nothing about Puerto Madero that is Buenos Aires.
But, indeed, I’ve come to realize that is also its appeal. Puerto Madero is where you go when you want to feel like you’re in some place other than Buenos Aires, or even South America for that matter.
April 28th, 2006 at 12:56 am
Sometimes you just need a little fresh air for the lungs. And you are right it looks like Anywhere, North America. Feels very vacant, and trying hard to be trendy. That said the Faena Hotel+Universe’s decor makes my heart pitter patter!
Are the rumours true about the Coto in your barrio burning down?
Glad to see you are writing more again!
April 28th, 2006 at 12:36 pm
Si, pero ¿en que otro barrio parecido a Puerto Madero tienen un merendero de Castells, eh?
April 28th, 2006 at 3:07 pm
Ah, yes, the wonderful Castells eatery, a lovely addition to Puerto Madero.
And, true, the Faena hotel must be a lovely place, though I’ve not been on the inside.
Yes, the Coto in San Telmo, just down the street from me on Brasil did burn Sunday night. It’s not completely destroyed. I think that it was mostly the storeroom that was on fire. They seem to be trying to clean it out but I don’t know when it will re-open. Hopefully, soon, now I’m having to trudge over to the Coto that is in front of Plaza Constitución. It’s actually a much nicer Coto but I don’t like having to walk through the Plaza; I always have the feeling that someone is going to grab and run off my bag of Coca-Colas. That would be a serious crime.
May 5th, 2006 at 8:41 am
[…] Jeff habla, en su blog en inglés sobre Buenos Aires, acerca de Puerto Madero. […]
September 16th, 2006 at 10:47 am
[…] My thoughts on Puerto Madero are know to regular readers of this site. Lately I’ve been doing a lot of work, spending most of my days, in one of those office buildings along the waterway. […]
November 11th, 2006 at 4:11 pm
I share your opinion… It’s too artificial for me. Maybe in couple of years, for now I just feel money there. It definitely does not have the spirit other neighborhoods have.
But I have to admit that the girls are even beautiful there! It must be all the new offices around, right? Check out my blog, I’m posting girls photos I take with my cellphone in the street. Buenos Aires is great! 😉
Marco
http://girlsofbuenosaires.blogspot.com/