Long-time readers of this blog know that our Buenos Aires home was on the border of San Telmo and Barracas. But since last November we’ve been staying at a place in Recoleta. A short-term housesitting gig turned into a longer opportunity. It’s one of those beautiful Recoleta apartments…an absolutely astonishing staircase.
Good to experience what it’s like to live in a different part of the city, but I have missed the edge of San Telmo and Barracas, particularly Bar Britanico and Hipopótamo. Around Recoleta I just can’t find any good cafes with that type of character. All the places around Recoleta are too posh & modern for my tastes (and maybe that’s just reflective of the neighborhood). Any recommendations?
August 21st, 2009 at 3:43 pm
Impossible to find a place like Bar Británico, but anyway I recommend:
Santé Bar – Peña 2300 (And Azcuénaga)
Florencio – Francisco de Vittoria 2363
August 21st, 2009 at 3:57 pm
@Santiago: thanks for the tips. I’ll check those places out.
August 21st, 2009 at 10:08 pm
A toughie — lived at Pueyrredón y Guido and best I could do were indoors at La Biela (surprisingly quiet/conducive to reading & writing during daytime) and across Callao at Quintana, a place called Monet. Sidewalk table there is lovely. You can always trek up to El Ateneo on Santa Fe. But typical bodegones, la Recoleta hace mucha falta…
August 22nd, 2009 at 12:30 pm
I like the coffee shop/whole foods restaurant on the corner of Mansilla and Jean Jaures. Maybe a 15-min walk from where you are?
August 22nd, 2009 at 12:42 pm
@Jonathan: Oddly, I’ve not tried La Biela during a weekday…I always rush by that location as too touristy but I’ll try the inside. BTW, you have some good photos on your site!
@Barbara: Thanks for the suggestion. That is a fairly short walk from where we’re at. Oddly, again, I rarely head off in that direction, always going the other way, but I’ll give it a try.
August 23rd, 2009 at 1:54 am
Go south down Las Heras, or try going back down toward downtown. There’s el club español there somewhere. On Cordoba you might find something with a bit more character. Corrientes much better. It’s a long walk, though
August 23rd, 2009 at 12:56 pm
Jeff, I know where your place is located. As you walk in the “other direction” you are walking towards an increasingly wealthy district. Walks towards Once and you will find more traditional places — eg, Belen at the corner of Corrientes and Boulogne Sur Mer (great deli next door, too!). Or you could try the upstairs lounge in Est. General de Café on Pueyrredon, right across from Hospital Aleman.
August 23rd, 2009 at 2:06 pm
@Martin: I think you’re right about heading towards Corrientes. I’ll probably end up going with the little hike down to Los Galgos on the corner of Callao & Lavalle. I’ve always liked that place. A little far from me but I could use the exercise.
@Barbara: Walking into Once is always fun. I’ll keep Belen in mind.
I do have to try the upstairs at Est. General de Café. I met Robert for breakfast there the other day but didn’t make it upstairs, despite his insistence that I wander up the steps…I was too lazy that early in the morning.
August 23rd, 2009 at 4:47 pm
I stumbled upon your blog not long after I got here 3 years ago, and I now check it at least once a week. Nice job!
I have an unrelated question to the topic at hand. Does anyone know a place to rent Argentine videos? I know you can buy them at Musimundo, but I haven’t been able to find a place to rent, other than Borders. I’m sure there’s some hole in the wall place with a wonderful collection somewhere. I just hope I find before I leave BA in about a year.
August 23rd, 2009 at 5:52 pm
Hi Don, Thanks for your nice words about the blog.
I’ve found most of the video rental stores in BA have a selection of Argentine movies, though the selection might be quite small. Perhaps a good place to ask this question is over at the Filming in Argentina blog.
As for Argentine films, I’ve recently enjoyed watching on DVD both of the movies by Lucia Puenzo: “El Niño Pez” & “XXY”.
August 25th, 2009 at 8:40 am
Thanks for the quick response, Jeff. I meant to ask if anyone knows a video rental store with a LARGE collection of Argentine movies. The best collection I’ve been able to find so far is in Borders, and that isn’t very large.
I’ll see what I can find at Filming in Argentina. That sounds like a good place to start.
August 27th, 2009 at 7:18 pm
I spent a great time last month in Buenos Aires. I rented a furnished apartment in Recoleta, Buenos Aires, near the down town. I suggest that service called Baires Apartments: Buenos Aires apartments
September 11th, 2009 at 5:51 pm
Hi everyone!
I also spent a great time last month in Buenos Aires. I rented a furnished apartment in Recoleta, Buenos Aires, near the down town. I suggest that service called ForRent Argentina: Buenos Aires apartments For Rent
Cheers,
Fred
March 3rd, 2010 at 5:41 pm
Hi, I´ve been in Buenos Aires for a whole year. At first I stayed at a hostel called Charlie´s Hostel, and it turned out that they also had apartments, so I booked with them too. They are very nice people and the apartments are great. I left you where you can find them:
http://www.charlieshostel.com
http://www.charliesapartments.com
May 19th, 2010 at 8:44 am
How about the one on the corner of Posadas, on the street running down from the Alvear (forgotten the name, I’m in India at the moment and can’t remember the street names in BA)? It’s the one with old wooden panels and is a good old school cafe.
From another Hipopotomo fan
July 12th, 2010 at 11:37 pm
@Don: have you tried Liberarte at Corrientes 1555 (4375-2341)? Although I haven’t been there yet, it was recommended to me by a friend when I asked her for a good place to rent argentine movies.
@Jeff: If it happens you desperately miss El Britanico, remember there is always bus 17 which will take you from Recoleta to San Telmo and back again 😉