I’ve been anticipating the arrival of the cool weather that accompanies autumn and winter. We seemingly have skipped fall and landed right in the midst of a Buenos Aires winter. That’s fine with me since my preference is for cold, gray days. (How did I survive living in Miami Beach for five years?) I like bundling up in layers of wool.
Recently, a trip to my favorite thrift shop on the southside of Buenos Aires resulted in the acquisition of an alpaca scarf and a great wool sports jacket for less than 50 pesos. (Don’t bother asking. I’m never revealing the location of that store. Despite the ridiculous inflation here, bargains can still be found if you hunt around).
This climate also gives me the excuse – not that I need one – to sit in a cozy cafe, sipping a hot cup of coffee. Since I have a very limited sense of taste or smell (an attribute that was handy for drinking copious amounts of alcohol in college), I have no need to quench an advanced coffee thirst with the recent opening of Starbucks in Palermo. Even when I lived in the U.S., I’m fairly certain my visits to Starbucks never exceeded half-a-dozen trips, most of which were in the company of a friend. Just call me bland and boring or blame my damaged taste buds. Meanwhile you’re more likely to find me in a cafe with water stains on the walls while happily drinking my murky coffee.
June 3rd, 2008 at 12:03 am
I miss cafes, but I don’t miss the cold! Here the monsoon has started.
June 3rd, 2008 at 12:11 am
Thank you for the Obama article! That was a nice little reminder to keep up with US politics while I’m here.
Is that cafĂ© on Callao and LaValle? It really looks like one I frequent there– then again, I know you’re in the San Telmo area so it’s possible there are just a lot of similar looking cafes. And as a bit of a coffee snob let me say, drudging through the murky coffee is a great way to get to know the city, and occasionally you find a gem. I found this great shop with delicious coffee and pastries (it’s a confiteria) right on my block on Pueyrrodon.
Oh, and I’m Stephanie, I found your blog when I got here in February and have been reading for a while– I’m a student spending the semester here from the states.
I do have a question that you might have an answer to, if you have a moment– I’m currently hunting down some plays in Spanish and was wondering if you had a recommendation for a bookstore (preferably used) that might have a wide variety of obras de teatro. I don’t think anything of them are terribly obscure, but I’d prefer to find them somewhere other than Cuspide or El Ateneo.
Anyway, if you have a moment / suggestion, I’d be grateful.
June 3rd, 2008 at 12:28 pm
@Isabel: I’ve often wondered what it would be like to live in India during monsoon season….try to stay dry.
@Stephanie: Good guess about the photo, but it’s actually a pic of Britanico. You’re thinking of Los Galgos, another one of my favorite places…very similar to Britanico. This is a reminder that I need to drop by Los Galgos again, so maybe there will be a pic up soon.
As for dramatic works, I suggest just browsing around the bookstores on Corrientes. One of those stores used to have a large selection of plays in old hardcover editions. As for new books, I believe that Gandhi has a drama section towards the back of the store. Happy hunting!
June 3rd, 2008 at 10:12 pm
Thanks Jeff! I stopped by Los Galgos today to double check the photo. It’s a nice little spot, though I’ve recently fallen in love with El Gato Negro– it’s a great place to people watch.
Also, Britanico is great… I headed there after I found your blog in February and it was a nice two hour walk through San Telmo and a tasty (3 peso!) coffee. Your blog has been a fun way to explore the city.
June 5th, 2008 at 2:51 pm
I keep hoping one of these days I run into you in Britanico (it’s my favorite cafe). I’ve been reading your blog for over the past year and have loved every entry and picture. I study the more contemporary (1976-1983) urban history of BsAs, so your blog ties into my interests. Just keep hoping to meet the man behind the posts one day. Well, if you see a blond chick with glasses and a blue Dickies bag in Britanico, come say hola.
June 26th, 2008 at 5:50 pm
nothing beats nice strong coffee when cold. but i have to say that i love ice coffee in the summer.. wish it was more popular here!
June 26th, 2008 at 6:34 pm
Hi Diego, true about ice coffee the summer…that’s about the only coffee I found myself drinking when I lived in Miami.