Just returned from a week on the Argentine coast. Stayed in a small village called Dunamar, which is on the other side of Tres Arroyos, about 8 hours by bus from the Retiro station in Buenos Aires. There are a lot closer beach towns but we accidentally discovered this place last year and decided to return again for my birthday this month. Only about 15 families live in Dunamar throughout the year. There are just a few dozen houses in Dunamar and I’m told that they are all already booked for January. Dunamar was founded in the 1950s by Ernesto Gessell, brother of the guy who founded the coastal resort town of Villa Gessell. In a way, Dunamar is a very tiny version of Villa Gessell. Located in a woodsy area with a broad beach that is deserted during the off-season. It’s one of those lovely beaches where you can walk for kilometers and not see anyone. Plus, you can see both the sunrise and the sunset on the same day. All very nice and relaxing.
The drawback to Dunamar is that it’s located right next to the horrible beach town of Claromecó, which has a lovely name but is rather blah. But, Claromecó has a wonderful lighthouse.
I’ve been to the top of many lighthouses and have always enjoyed them. But, somehow, the wide, open nature of the spiral staircase in this particular lighthouse really affected my vertigo and I had to backtrack my way down before getting to the top. There’s also an incredible echo within the lighthouse. That stairway is beautiful but not for those with a fear of heights.
And here’s the house that we rented in Dunamar for less than 100 pesos a night (off-season rates).
A shocking discovery
Walking along the beach at dusk one evening we came across something that really startled us. In the distance we saw an object in the surf. At first, I thought it was a person or a dog but as we got closer we didn’t see it anymore. So, we figured it was nothing or we hoped that it was nothing since we didn’t see either man or animal get out of the water and onto the beach.
Then we saw it again, bobbing in the waves. It looked, initially, like a black garbage bag but one that was really large. We stared at it for a few seconds. My imagination ran away. What large item could be in this garbage bag? Honestly, the thought that came to me: a body. Then the bag started moving. For just a second, the thought came to my mind that the person was alive. I felt like I was in some opening scene of CSI. Then, with relief, we realized that it was a seal or something. Turns out that it was really fun to watch the fellow move along the shoreline. He would catch the waves and surf towards the beach then swim back out.
Later, walking along the beach, we see this huge object on the horizon. We get closer and closer, thinking that it’s another sea animal but this one wasn’t moving. We were afraid that he was dead, having beached himself. But then he got up and walked a few steps before collapsing again. We inched closer for a better view.
Back in Dunamar, someone told us that it was a lobo marino. That translates to sea wolf but I think these animals are known sea lions in English. The photo doesn’t really give a good sense as to the massive size of this fellow…think small car.
Down in Peninsula Valdés you expect to see all sorts of things like this but I didn’t expect it this far up the coast. Last year we didn’t see anything of the sort around Dunamar. But this year was an enjoyable surprise.
Finally, here’s another sunset to close out this post. There are a couple of more interesting things I’ve learned on the trip that I’ll share later.
December 18th, 2006 at 10:40 am
welcome back. nice pics. seems like you
had a nice time.
best,
e
December 19th, 2006 at 8:50 pm
Hi,
I’ve enjoyed your blog after seeing it on the expats website. I’ve lived here in BA for more than 2 years and have yet to see the beaches. Do you have a contact name or email for the house you rented? A quick trip there in the offseason sounds wonderful!
Brian.
December 20th, 2006 at 1:28 am
What a nice report! I remember going to both Dunamar and Claromecó as a child (late 1960’s). My mother owned a piece of land there. She was good friends with the founder of Villa Gesell (Carlos Gesell). Please note there is only one “s” in Gesell. This was an Argentinian of German descent who started planting trees in what used to be a desert. He had to protect the little twigs he planted with cylinders made of plastic (yes, each and every twig) because the wind was so strong, that it would break the twigs, or just blow them away. Carlos Gesell deserves a monument. He was a true pioneer. When he first started, people nick-named him “el loco de los árboles” (something like “the tree-crazed man”). They really thought he was crazy.
December 20th, 2006 at 1:05 pm
Hi Brian – Thanks for reading my blog.
The real estate agent that we use in Dunamar is Mabel Guglielmino de Winkler. Her contact info is on her web site Inmobiliaria MG. Remember, Dunamar is much nicer than Claromecó.
Hi Ernie – Also, thanks for reading. You’re the first person I’ve “talked with” who has heard of Dunamar and Claromecó. Thanks for the correction about the spelling of Gesell, I’m always getting that wrong. Seems like Gesell was a really interesting person.
December 21st, 2006 at 1:48 am
Hi Jeff,
Excelente la foto del Lobo Marino en idéntica pose al tradicional de piedra en la Rambla de Mar del Plata. Gracias también por la crónica de Dunamar y Claromecó.
Juan