Last night I took a taxi from Recoleta out to Liniers, a barrio on the southwestern edge of the capital district of Buenos Aires. I tend to think that I know Buenos Aires very well, but in the cab ride I was reminded by the vast amount of Buenos Aires that I do not know, barrios that I’ve never visited or have only passed through on the bus.
This aerial view from Google Earth shows the section of Buenos Aires that I know quite well, outlined in red. I have walked almost all of the streets in these barrios: San Telmo, Boca, Barracas, Constitucion, Parque Patricios, San Cristobal, Balvanera, Montserrat, Puerto Madero, San Nicolas, Retiro, & Recoleta.
Others areas are familiar and comfortable to me, such as Belgrano, Palermo, Caballito, Almagro, Boedo, Chacarita, & Flores.
But last night in the taxi I saw many charming aspects of Buenos Aires as we passed through barrios such as Floresta, Villa Gral. Mitre, Villa Luro (which I’m not sure I even knew existed) on our way to the border of Liniers and Mataderos and just a stone’s throw from Av Gral Paz. There’s some really great architecture that exists in the most unexpected of places. I’m probably not going to have the chance anytime soon to broaden my Buenos Aires experience to the western barrios, but there are many areas where I want a closer look…out of the taxi, not on the bus, but by walking the streets.
June 14th, 2009 at 9:10 am
You’re not alone at all, even locals rarely venture outside their comfort zone. I remember when I first moved here and set out to actually at least go to each of the barrios, even if just briefly, my Spanish teacher thought I was nuts. He’s lived here his whole life and probably hasn’t seen all the barrios you listed off as having been to. It was sort of “Retiro, Recoleta, Palermo, Belgrano, why would you go anywhere else? There’s nothing there. Maybe San Telmo to show someone the antiques fair.”
June 14th, 2009 at 11:02 am
It works the other way as well. We used to live in Villa Devoto and rarely went further than Villa del Parque.
June 14th, 2009 at 1:39 pm
@Dan – yeah, there’s a certain type that never goes south of Av Santa Fe. 🙂
That’s a great idea about going to each of the barrios if even only for a brief visit.
@David – I even recognize that in myself at times when for a week or two I never go more than a few blocks beyond my apartment. The self-contained nature of the barrios, providing practically everything one needs for living, gives BsAs a certain small town feel at those times when you stick close to home.
June 14th, 2009 at 2:24 pm
That trip is even better seen via collectivo! Check out Will Betton’s articles on collectivos at our new site: landingpadba.com
June 14th, 2009 at 4:40 pm
@Kristin, true. I’m a big fan of bus trips across the city, too. I’ve actually did take the bus out to Liniers on another trip…a 2 hour journey.
June 17th, 2009 at 10:31 pm
Be careful. Some of the barrios you mention are in fact slums. I wouldn’t venture into those areas, let alone walk in them… It can get quite dangerous. Liniers has a particularly bad reputation.
June 18th, 2009 at 7:19 pm
@Juan – sounds like you’ve never been to any of those barrios.
June 18th, 2009 at 8:03 pm
Jeff- Sounds like you don’t have the slightest clue what you’re talking about. I know for fact that Liniers has a huge problem with crime. The area is notorious for murders, muggings, etc… Same goes for Villa Lugano and some parts of Flores (have you ever heard
June 18th, 2009 at 8:20 pm
continues (have you ever heard about the infamous Bajo Flores) You wouldn’t want to venture into that area, believe me, not even pass through by car. As you see, things are not always as they appear at first glance…
June 18th, 2009 at 8:31 pm
@Juan: Of course, I know about that area. But other parts of Flores are very nice. Yes?
June 19th, 2009 at 8:51 am
And, many parts of Liniers are just fine as well – we go there all the time for the food markets. That’s exactly the issue with the assumptions about “what it’s like” in other barrios, it may be based on a problem in a small area of the barrio as opposed to the whole thing. One could just as easily claim that Retiro isn’t safe to go to because of the villa that’s alongside the train station (or vice versa that because the Kavanaugh building is there, you can safely walk anywhere, both equally bad assumptions). Same in Flores – there’s an area that’s not safe, but areas like Coreatown are in Bajo Flores and just fine to walk around in.
June 19th, 2009 at 11:35 am
@Dan – That’s very well said about people’s assumptions on the aspects of different places. Thanks.
June 19th, 2009 at 9:41 pm
You are so right, I’m a professional driver here, and there are so many surprises to be had. But unfortunately, some of these places outside of the main tourist areas can be quite dangerous!
Fred
June 19th, 2009 at 10:03 pm
Hi Fred, thanks for joining the conversation. Being a driver here must be exciting.
June 20th, 2009 at 2:39 am
It really is, the best part is getting to meet expats and other tourists coming in, what they did and their opinion of the city. It is great way to learn the city, and get paid for it! Example, today I found a wonderful tenedor libre for $24AR, including Bife de Chorizo, good (not great) quality.
My car and gas costs are much higher than expected, BsAs is cheap, but not when it comes to keeping a car. Nice blog…Fred
June 25th, 2009 at 12:50 am
Hi!
There is an interesting bolivian town in Liniers, where you can find great and spicy soups for this cold days!
Bye
Carolina
June 25th, 2009 at 1:59 am
Carolina: Thanks for the tip.