October 2007


The Essential Guidebooks


Beach in Trinidad

In late summer 2001, while I was living in South Beach, a young French couple rented a room in my house for a month. One day Adrian was looking over my bookshelves, particularly my large collection of travel books, when he said to Melanie, “Jeff must travel a lot.”

At that point, I felt that I had to speak up and tell the truth. “No, I don’t travel much at all. I just buy a lot of guidebooks.”

Guidebooks have been my first purchase when thinking about traveling somewhere. Since there’s hardly anywhere I don’t want to go, I buy guidebooks even in anticipation of a trip decades away. Paging through a travel guide is a form of entertainment, an attempt to satisfy that curiosity about the world.

I think my very first guidebook purchase was sometime around the age of 12. I remember being at Walden Books at Rivergate mall just north of Nashville and getting that slim, green Michelin Guide to Paris. I didn’t make it to Paris until I was 18 but I vividly recall tracing the walks along the maps and learning about the Musée de Cluny; I was a strange boy.

What I enjoy about guidebooks are the descriptions of places, the contextual info. I skip all those pages about transport, lodging, and food. Sometimes, that means I’m skipping three-fourths of the book. Those are practicalities that arise in a different phase of travel planning. Yet, those details - updated by diligent, poorly paid souls slogging from hostel to hotel - are the essence of the guidebook. So, I’ve found myself seeking out other sources to prepare me for my travels or my fantasies of setting foot someday on a distant soil.

I like to learn. I like to learn about the world. Is that a passion?

Old Delhi

As a librarian, I had easy access to a large research collection. For a trip to India, I read William Dalyrmple’s City of Djinns and Bamber Gascoigne’s The Great Moghuls. I even found an enchanting book, Sadhus: Holy Men of India by Dolf Hartsuiker, that I obtained through interlibrary loan. That combination, along with a few other resources, really enhanced my experience riding on the back of a rickshaw along the jammed, narrow streets of Old Delhi. Rather than thinking about the pain in my backside from sitting on a bouncing narrow bench, mental images from my readings of India’s astonishing history mixed with the living culture moving all around me.

But most people don’t have access to research collections or would even known which books to read if they did. Guidebooks often do a very good job of referring readers to other books and that’s one of my favorite features of guidebooks. But who has time to read the best 40 books on Malaysia or even the best three?

The Internet offers lots of sources but, again, it’s time-consuming to filter through all the travel sites that are simply fronts for booking reservations. For each good blog such as Travelvice or Life on the Tibetan Plateau, there is a deluge of travel blogs with photos of Uncle Joe smiling over his steak at Cabaña Las Lilas.

There surely will be the emergence of even more Net-based resources that will help people prepare for a more enriching experience during their travels. But, the question is how will those resources be structured? How will they differ from and enhance existing resources available to travelers? How will they go beyond the limited coverage that can fit into a guidebook but also not be overwhelming?

Barraca Peña, the old train station in La Boca

Tucked down along the smelly river in La Boca is one of the oldest (or, dating from 1865, is it the oldest?) train stations in Buenos Aires, Barraca Peña. If you’re in the tourist center of La Boca, you’ll need to walk a ways along the river before you find it. Alternatively, you might be able to just walk down the railroad tracks but that may be more of an adventure than many of you want. Several sections of the tracks in La Boca are now remodeled with pedestrian walkways but I don’t think it extends as far as the station yet.

That fancy rail car is fitted for a cinema, hence the painting on the side.


Train station in La Boca

The original wood structure (and I just reminded of how unusual it is to see a building in Buenos Aires made from wood) has been painted bright colors in keeping with the La Boca theme. Workmen still are fixing up parts of the interior. And, it seems, that a family is still living in part of the station? (That girl with the kid in the photo was another visitor to the station, not part of the family I heard watching TV in the back room).


Train station in La Boca

That tent off to the side of the tracks is an exhibition of photos of the area from the late 1800s. Prototypes and drawings of plans to develop the area around the station are on display. I must say, however, that the quality of the exhibition is rather disappointing. Basically, it looks like a student project. I applaud the effort but it makes me wonder if the project is ever going to really materialize. Anyway, best of luck to this project. It’s worth keeping an eye on.

International Literary Quarterly

Fellow BA expat Peter Robertson has released the first issue of a new literary journal, The International Literary Quarterly. I’ve been hearing about the development of this journal from Peter for months and I must say that it exceeds expectations. Great job, Peter!

A couple of pieces of particular interest for readers of this blog are a story by Lydia Davis, mostly known these days as a translator of Proust. Davis wrote the story in 1966 during a summer stay in Buenos Aires.

And then there’s a poem by Suzanne Jill Levine, who is the translator of Bioy Casares and Manuel Puig.

I’m meeting Peter for coffee tomorrow afternoon in Palermo to chat about the new journal and will be posting a follow-up.

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